NEW DELHI — Entering New Delhi's PCO (Pass Code Only) bar is not for the faint of heart. There's no welcome sign — the entrance is marked only by a modest phone box — and patrons can't get in without typing the password that unlocks the front door.
Inside, there's the authentic vernacular of India — the type of bars inspired by America's 1920-33 Prohibition era, a unique blend of nostalgia, mystery and sophistication, combined with outstanding mixology and (usually) great food.